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	<title>Comments on: Making Photo-Realistic Lego Bricks in Blender</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/</link>
	<description>Fresh Blender News, Every Day</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 08:16:05 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Stefan</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-368194</link>
		<dc:creator>Stefan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:15:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-368194</guid>
		<description>As I've recently learned (despite being a lifelong fan of Lego), the top studs are not simple chamfers.  They have a distinctly rounded profile (my own cg Lego currently does not).  It also pays to pay attention to the underlying geometry to minimize smoothing errors.  Ideally, the material for solid Lego is a semi-glossy mat with low hardness and and raymirror enabled (though I usually disable it for time concerns).  Transparent parts will also need an appropriate IoR for Polycarbonate (1.585).

Here's some of my own results using an independently developed process, perhaps they will help.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2628999579_1f1d407d9e_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/2629534252_5126c67860_o.jpg
http://www.majhost.com/gallery/sastrei/BrickSpace2/dev10.jpg

-Stefan-</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As I&#039;ve recently learned (despite being a lifelong fan of Lego), the top studs are not simple chamfers.  They have a distinctly rounded profile (my own cg Lego currently does not).  It also pays to pay attention to the underlying geometry to minimize smoothing errors.  Ideally, the material for solid Lego is a semi-glossy mat with low hardness and and raymirror enabled (though I usually disable it for time concerns).  Transparent parts will also need an appropriate IoR for Polycarbonate (1.585).</p>
<p>Here&#039;s some of my own results using an independently developed process, perhaps they will help.<br />
<a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2628999579_1f1d407d9e_o.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2628999579_1f1d407d9e_o.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/2629534252_5126c67860_o.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/2629534252_5126c67860_o.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://www.majhost.com/gallery/sastrei/BrickSpace2/dev10.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.majhost.com/gallery/sastrei/BrickSpace2/dev10.jpg</a></p>
<p>-Stefan-</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: ysvry</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-368149</link>
		<dc:creator>ysvry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 17:26:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-368149</guid>
		<description>i agree with leo</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i agree with leo</p>
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		<title>By: Leonardo</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-368127</link>
		<dc:creator>Leonardo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 14:41:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-368127</guid>
		<description>I'm disappointed in some of you, especially Bmud. Instead of bashing the tutorial, how about you suggest improvements. Mocking is not going to get you anywhere.

Thanks, WC, for taking the time to write this. I personally found it helpful. It's not perfect, but for a beginner it's pretty helpful.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#039;m disappointed in some of you, especially Bmud. Instead of bashing the tutorial, how about you suggest improvements. Mocking is not going to get you anywhere.</p>
<p>Thanks, WC, for taking the time to write this. I personally found it helpful. It&#039;s not perfect, but for a beginner it&#039;s pretty helpful.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: William Chamberlin</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-368059</link>
		<dc:creator>William Chamberlin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 12:03:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-368059</guid>
		<description>I must say that seeing my tutorial on this site came as a total surprise (albeit a pleasant one). Let me endeavor to answer a few questions.

Urenze:

• I'm not an expert here, so I won't be too specific - but yes, radiosity does have more effects than you originally thought.

• There are many different ways to set up the lighting for a scene like this. I used an inverse square spotlamp (and I believe the reason it was so far away was to give a perfect evenly-lit look for that shot), but this can be confusing. For most scenes, a sun lamp would probably work just as well (or better), in which case an energy of only about 2 is needed, and the distance and position of the lamp doesn't really matter.

I see there have been some complaints about the tutorial. Bmud: remember that what seems simple to you might not seem so to others. I know that when I was first learning all this, I would have really benefited from a tutorial like this one. I'm not a Blender expert yet, but I'm happy to share what I do know!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I must say that seeing my tutorial on this site came as a total surprise (albeit a pleasant one). Let me endeavor to answer a few questions.</p>
<p>Urenze:</p>
<p>• I&#039;m not an expert here, so I won&#039;t be too specific - but yes, radiosity does have more effects than you originally thought.</p>
<p>• There are many different ways to set up the lighting for a scene like this. I used an inverse square spotlamp (and I believe the reason it was so far away was to give a perfect evenly-lit look for that shot), but this can be confusing. For most scenes, a sun lamp would probably work just as well (or better), in which case an energy of only about 2 is needed, and the distance and position of the lamp doesn&#039;t really matter.</p>
<p>I see there have been some complaints about the tutorial. Bmud: remember that what seems simple to you might not seem so to others. I know that when I was first learning all this, I would have really benefited from a tutorial like this one. I&#039;m not a Blender expert yet, but I&#039;m happy to share what I do know!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bmud</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-367558</link>
		<dc:creator>Bmud</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 00:22:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-367558</guid>
		<description>n/m found it: http://content.luxology.com/gallery/45138bc5ff4e90a4085dee80ab63d5d3.jpg
Here ends my posts. Wish I could just edit my first one. Lousy wordpress... :(</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>n/m found it: <a href="http://content.luxology.com/gallery/45138bc5ff4e90a4085dee80ab63d5d3.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://content.luxology.com/gallery/45138bc5ff4e90a4085dee80ab63d5d3.jpg</a><br />
Here ends my posts. Wish I could just edit my first one. Lousy wordpress&#8230; :(</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bmud</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-367557</link>
		<dc:creator>Bmud</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 00:18:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-367557</guid>
		<description>@Matt: hahhaha I agree. Didn't catch that the first time. XD All my legos have little dings in them too from the sharp corners of other legos in the giant bin i keep them in.

This article also reminds me of this image I stumbled upon in the modo site's menu
http://www.luxology.com/whatismodo/
but I can't seem to find a full-size image. A photo-real mini lego pod race would be really cool if you ask me :P</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Matt: hahhaha I agree. Didn&#039;t catch that the first time. XD All my legos have little dings in them too from the sharp corners of other legos in the giant bin i keep them in.</p>
<p>This article also reminds me of this image I stumbled upon in the modo site&#039;s menu<br />
<a href="http://www.luxology.com/whatismodo/" rel="nofollow">http://www.luxology.com/whatismodo/</a><br />
but I can&#039;t seem to find a full-size image. A photo-real mini lego pod race would be really cool if you ask me :P</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bmud</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-367554</link>
		<dc:creator>Bmud</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 00:11:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-367554</guid>
		<description>That was a lame excuse for a tutorial. The fact that it only mentions LeoCAD is limiting all by itself.
Here's my version of the same tutorial...

Hey look, you can model Legos in 3D! Dur!

http://www.ldraw.org
http://www.leocad.org

Hey, you can import them in to Blender - no surprise since it imports practically everything!
Then you can press render with the renderer of your choice. No duh.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That was a lame excuse for a tutorial. The fact that it only mentions LeoCAD is limiting all by itself.<br />
Here&#039;s my version of the same tutorial&#8230;</p>
<p>Hey look, you can model Legos in 3D! Dur!</p>
<p><a href="http://www.ldraw.org" rel="nofollow">http://www.ldraw.org</a><br />
<a href="http://www.leocad.org" rel="nofollow">http://www.leocad.org</a></p>
<p>Hey, you can import them in to Blender - no surprise since it imports practically everything!<br />
Then you can press render with the renderer of your choice. No duh.</p>
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		<title>By: Tynach</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-367550</link>
		<dc:creator>Tynach</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:13:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-367550</guid>
		<description>Its not photorealistic. I don't see the Lego logo on each piece!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Its not photorealistic. I don&#039;t see the Lego logo on each piece!</p>
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		<title>By: Urenze</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-367473</link>
		<dc:creator>Urenze</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:54:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-367473</guid>
		<description>Hello!

I've just tried this tutorial. Thanks for posting it! However, I had some issues  when following it (please bear in mind that I been using Blender for 2 weeks, only):

- The distance of the lamp to the bricks is not described, so I just set it close to them, as I have done in previous scenes and seen in other tutorials.

- At first, I used a Mesh-Cube. As a result, I obtained an overexposed scene that the gamma node only made worse.

- Seeing this, I decided to append the white brick from Jordan's .blend file to my scene. The brick looked no so overexposed, but computer-made once rendered. Worse still, I could see that the sides appeared bent, as they do when seen through the 3D view.

- I opened the original .blend file, and included some meshes and appended objects of mine, and everything looked fine.

- I went over all the settings in the original file to make sure that I had them replicated in my own file. At last I noticed that I had not set the Radiosity rendering button on. This solved the bent sides, and everything looked great.

However, I still have some pressing questions, and I woud greately appreciate if someone could be so kind as to help me out with them:

1) I thought that the Radiosity rendering button was only needed if the object has been previously prepared for it. I suppose this is incorrect, isn't it?

2) Why is 5000 the distance set for the lamp? In other tutorials it is only 40 or 100.

3) Why is the lamp's position located that far away from the actual objects in the 3D view (x=50+, y=50+, z=90+, if I remember correctly)? 

4) Why is 7 the energy of the lamp? In other tutorials it is only 1 or 2; 8 or 10 when using Yafray. 

5) Relating to 2-3: Can't we have similar results with lower lamp distance, position and energy?

Sorry for all these questions, but sometimes I despair when confronted to so many different ways for setting up scenes (and when I get results not as good).

Regards,
Urenze</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello!</p>
<p>I&#039;ve just tried this tutorial. Thanks for posting it! However, I had some issues  when following it (please bear in mind that I been using Blender for 2 weeks, only):</p>
<p>- The distance of the lamp to the bricks is not described, so I just set it close to them, as I have done in previous scenes and seen in other tutorials.</p>
<p>- At first, I used a Mesh-Cube. As a result, I obtained an overexposed scene that the gamma node only made worse.</p>
<p>- Seeing this, I decided to append the white brick from Jordan&#039;s .blend file to my scene. The brick looked no so overexposed, but computer-made once rendered. Worse still, I could see that the sides appeared bent, as they do when seen through the 3D view.</p>
<p>- I opened the original .blend file, and included some meshes and appended objects of mine, and everything looked fine.</p>
<p>- I went over all the settings in the original file to make sure that I had them replicated in my own file. At last I noticed that I had not set the Radiosity rendering button on. This solved the bent sides, and everything looked great.</p>
<p>However, I still have some pressing questions, and I woud greately appreciate if someone could be so kind as to help me out with them:</p>
<p>1) I thought that the Radiosity rendering button was only needed if the object has been previously prepared for it. I suppose this is incorrect, isn&#039;t it?</p>
<p>2) Why is 5000 the distance set for the lamp? In other tutorials it is only 40 or 100.</p>
<p>3) Why is the lamp&#039;s position located that far away from the actual objects in the 3D view (x=50+, y=50+, z=90+, if I remember correctly)? </p>
<p>4) Why is 7 the energy of the lamp? In other tutorials it is only 1 or 2; 8 or 10 when using Yafray. </p>
<p>5) Relating to 2-3: Can&#039;t we have similar results with lower lamp distance, position and energy?</p>
<p>Sorry for all these questions, but sometimes I despair when confronted to so many different ways for setting up scenes (and when I get results not as good).</p>
<p>Regards,<br />
Urenze</p>
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		<title>By: gord</title>
		<link>http://www.blendernation.com/2008/08/19/making-photo-realistic-lego-bricks-in-blender/#comment-367465</link>
		<dc:creator>gord</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:15:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.blendernation.com/?p=4449#comment-367465</guid>
		<description>overlibral use of the word 'photo-realistic' but still nice</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>overlibral use of the word &#039;photo-realistic&#039; but still nice</p>
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